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Wailea, Maui

Maui’s manicured south end is fifteen minutes down the coast from our bungalows — five golden beaches, a path along the water, the island’s nicest hotels. Here is the part they don’t advertise: it’s all public, and you can enjoy every bit of it for the price of gas.

dronepicr / CC BY 2.0
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Guests ask us about Wailea more than almost anywhere else on Maui, and usually in the same breath as a worry: “isn’t it all private resorts?” It is not. Wailea is Maui’s manicured south end, about fifteen minutes down the coast from our bungalows, and it is one of the prettiest stretches of shoreline in the state — five golden beaches, a paved path along the water, world-class golf and the island’s fanciest hotels. Here is the part nobody at those hotels will lead with: every beach is public, the parking is free, and the coastal path belongs to everyone. You can spend a perfect Wailea day for the price of gas and a plate lunch. This is how we’d do it.

Fifteen minutes south, and a slightly different Maui

Wailea sits at the south end of the leeward coast, past the far edge of Kihei where South Kihei Road turns into Wailea Alanui Drive. From our place on the north end of Kihei it is a straight, easy fifteen-minute drive — no mountain roads, no traffic to speak of outside of rush hour. You will know you have arrived when the older, lived-in Kihei strip gives way to wide medians, clipped hedges and roundabouts with sculpture in the middle. It is a different look, and it is deliberate.

Wailea is a master-planned resort district, laid out in the early 1970s and built up through the decades that followed on what had been dry ranchland. That planning is why it feels the way it does — low-rise hotels spaced along the water, everything landscaped, none of the honky-tonk that makes older beach towns fun and a little messy. Some people love it and some find it a touch sterile. We think it is worth a day or two of any Maui trip regardless of which camp you land in, because the shoreline underneath all that landscaping is the real thing.

Here is the fact that changes how you use Wailea. In Hawaii, every beach is public up to the high-water line, and there is no exception for the fancy ones. When developers built these resorts they were required to provide public beach access and free public parking at each beach, and those lots are still there, marked with the blue shoreline-access signs. The hotels own their pools and their lawns. They do not own the sand, the water, or the path along the top of it. Walk in like you belong there, because legally, you do.

Wailea at a glance

WhereThe south end, past Kihei
From the bungalowsAbout 15 minutes by car
Beaches5, all public & free
Best snorkelUlua Beach, early
The walk~1.5-mi beachfront path
Cost to enjoy itAs low as a tank of gas

The five beaches, north to south

Start at the north end with Keawakapu, which straddles the line where Kihei ends and Wailea begins. It is a long, wide ribbon of soft tan sand — close to a mile of it — and it is our pick when we just want to walk, swim and watch the sun go down without a crowd. There are two free public lots, one at the north end off South Kihei Road and one at the south end where Wailea Alanui begins, both with showers. The rocky patches at either end hold fish if you bring a mask, but most people come here to stroll. Our full write-up lives in the Keawakapu Beach guide.

Next down are Mokapu and Ulua, a pair of small coves separated by a rocky point, fronting the Andaz. Ulua is the one to circle on your map: the lava outcropping on its south side is the best snorkeling in Wailea, with reef fish, the occasional honu (green sea turtle) and calm, clear water first thing in the morning before the wind comes up. Mokapu, just north, is quieter and better for a plain swim. They share a single free public lot above Ulua, and it is small, so it fills early — more on that below. If snorkeling is your priority, read our South Maui snorkeling guide first.

The showpiece is Wailea Beach itself, the half-mile golden crescent that fronts the Grand Wailea and the Four Seasons. It is wide, the entry is gentle and sandy, and it is the best of the five for straight swimming and for lying on a towel with the resorts behind you and the island of Kahoolawe out across the channel. It is also the busiest and the most resort-heavy, but the free public lot off Wailea Alanui puts you on the same sand as the hotel guests paying a fortune for the view. We break the whole beach down in our Wailea Beach guide, and sunset here is one of the best on the south side.

At the south end is Polo Beach, fronting the Fairmont Kea Lani. It is the quietest of the resort beaches, a little narrower, with a rocky point on the south end that snorkels reasonably when the water is calm. Locals like it as a launch for stand-up paddleboards and kayaks, and its free public lot is usually the last one in Wailea to fill, which makes it a smart fallback on a busy morning. Past Polo the paved coast runs out and the shoreline turns wild toward Makena and Big Beach, but that is a different guide. For a first Wailea day, Polo is a calm, pretty place to end up.

The Wailea beaches, north to south
BeachParkingSnorkelingThe vibe
KeawakapuTwo free lots, north & south endsGood at the rocky endsLong, wide, big sunsets
MokapuUse the Ulua lotFair, shallow reefQuiet, calm, fronts the Andaz
UluaFree lot, fills earlyBest in Wailea — honu & reefSnorkelers, sheltered cove
Wailea BeachFree lot off Wailea AlanuiFair; better for swimmingResort crescent, lively
PoloFree lot, usually last to fillOK at the south pointSouthernmost, calmer, SUP launch
The public path to the sand runs right between the resorts — the hotels own the lawns, not the beachPhoto: Forest and Kim Starr / CC BY 2.0

The Wailea Beach Path

Tying all of this together is the Wailea Beach Path, a paved oceanfront walkway that runs about a mile and a half from Keawakapu in the north to Polo in the south, hugging the water the whole way. Most of it is smooth pavement wide enough to walk two or three abreast, with a short stretch of wooden boardwalk up near the north end where it crosses a rocky point. It threads right between the resort lawns and the beach, past every hotel and all five coves, and like the beaches it is entirely public and free. Our full trail guide has the map and the parking.

It is at its best at the two ends of the day. At sunrise it belongs to joggers, walkers and the occasional lawn yoga class, the light is soft and gold, and you will have long stretches to yourself. At sunset it fills up, for good reason — the whole coast faces west, and the path gives you a front-row seat to the sun dropping behind Lanai and Kahoolawe. In winter, roughly December through April, you can often watch humpback whales breaching offshore right from the path; it is one of the best free whale-watching spots on the island, no boat required.

You can start from any beach lot and walk as much or as little as you like. We usually park at Polo or Wailea Beach, walk north toward Keawakapu, and turn around when we feel like it — the full round trip is about three miles at a flat, easy stroll. There are benches, water fountains and public restrooms along the way, and the resort grounds you pass are worth slowing down for, since the landscaping and the art are half the point of Wailea. Bring water and reef-safe sunscreen; there is not much shade once the sun is up.

Doing Wailea for free

Here is a whole day that costs the price of gas: park free at any beach lot, walk the path at sunrise, snorkel Ulua while the water is calm, nap and swim at Wailea Beach, then claim a spot for sunset. Cap it with a resort happy hour, where one mai tai buys you a seat on a lanai that cost hundreds of millions to build. Every lot has showers and restrooms, so pack a cooler and you never have to open your wallet inside a resort. For the rest of the trip, our Maui on a budget guide does the same math island-wide.

The resorts, and enjoying them without a room key

Five resorts line the Wailea shore, and it helps to know them by name even if you are only walking past. From north to south they are the Andaz Maui, the Grand Wailea (a Waldorf Astoria resort, and the big family-oriented one with the water slides), the Four Seasons Resort Maui and the Fairmont Kea Lani down toward Polo, with the Wailea Beach Resort (a Marriott) set near Wailea Beach. We are not here to rank them — we host people who want a house near the sand, not a hotel — but knowing which is which helps you orient along the path and find the right lobby bar.

You do not need a reservation to enjoy most of what makes these places nice. The lobbies, the open-air public areas and the shopping arcades are generally open to anyone who walks in dressed for dinner, the beach in front of every one of them is public, and the path runs right through the grounds. Nobody is going to stop you admiring the Grand Wailea’s gardens or crossing the Four Seasons’ oceanfront lawn to reach the sand. Read the room, be respectful, keep off the pool decks and the cabana areas that are clearly for guests, and you are welcome to the rest.

The genuinely affordable way into a Wailea resort is a happy hour or a sunset drink. Most of the hotels run an oceanfront bar where you can nurse one cocktail and soak up a setting that would cost you a fortune to sleep in — the view, the live music, the torches at dusk. It is the trick we pass along to guests who want the resort feeling for an evening without the resort bill: one round at sunset, then the fifteen-minute drive home to Kihei. Check current happy-hour times when you go, because they shift with the season and the property.

When Wailea fills up, and the lots go early

Relative crowds through the year on the south end. In the shaded months the free beach lots fill by mid-morning, so come early — and December through April you may catch whales offshore while you walk. A rough guide, not a guarantee.

JanWhales
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MarSpring
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JulSummer
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Nov 
DecHolidays
Quieter, easy parkingBusy, arrive early

The Shops at Wailea, and where to eat

In the middle of it all sits The Shops at Wailea, an open-air center with more than seventy stores and restaurants, open daily from mid-morning until about nine at night. It runs the full range, from luxury names like Louis Vuitton and Gucci to local mainstays worth an actual look — Honolulu Cookie Company for samples you can graze, Martin & MacArthur for koa-wood pieces, Na Hoku for island jewelry, and an ABC Store for the sunscreen you forgot. Parking in the garage is free with a short validation. Even if you buy nothing, it is an easy, air-conditioned hour out of the midday sun.

For a sit-down meal, the center is where Wailea’s dining clusters: Tommy Bahama for island-casual with a lanai, Ruth’s Chris for the steakhouse splurge, Matteo’s Osteria for Italian, plus a food court and a gourmet market if you just want a quick plate or a coffee. It is not cheap eating — this is Wailea — but it is reliable, and the market is the move if you want to assemble a beach picnic without leaving the neighborhood. Reservations are smart for the sit-down spots on a weekend night.

Our honest advice on food, though, is to eat in Kihei and treat Wailea as the daytime. The strip malls fifteen minutes north have the fish tacos, the poke counters, the food trucks and the shave ice at a fraction of the price, and half of them are places we actually eat. We keep our running list on the Kihei restaurants page. Do Wailea for the beach and the walk, drive home for dinner, and your wallet will feel the difference by the end of the week.

Wailea Beach at golden hour — the crescent fronts the Grand Wailea and the Four Seasons, and the sand is everyone’sPhoto: dronepicr / CC BY 2.0

Snorkeling Ulua, and sunset just about anywhere

If you snorkel one spot in Wailea, make it Ulua Beach. The rocky point on its south end drops into a shallow reef that holds the usual south-shore cast — yellow tang, parrotfish, wrasse, the occasional honu grazing on the rocks — and because the cove is sheltered, the water is often glassy first thing in the morning. Go early, ideally not long after sunrise, before the trade winds come up and stir the surface to chop. The same lava points that make Ulua good also make it a place to be careful; give the reef and any turtles a wide berth, and never stand on the coral.

Conditions matter more than the calendar here. On a calm morning Ulua is easy and rewarding even for beginners; on a windy afternoon it turns murky and not worth the swim. If you did not bring gear, the shops in Kihei rent masks and fins by the day for a few dollars, which beats the resort prices. For the bigger picture — Turtle Town, Molokini, the reefs within reach of our own beach — our snorkeling guide lays out where to go and how to read the water safely.

Sunset is the other thing Wailea does better than almost anywhere, and it is free from every beach on this list. The whole coast faces due west, straight at the islands of Lanai and Kahoolawe, so the sun drops into open ocean most of the year. Wailea Beach and Polo both give you a clean horizon; the path gives you a moving one. Get there twenty minutes early, claim a patch of sand or a bench, and watch the resorts empty onto the same shoreline you have had to yourself all day. It is the reason we never get tired of the drive down.

Golf, luaus, and the polished side of the trip

Wailea is also a golf town. The Wailea Golf Club runs three eighteen-hole courses — the Gold, the Emerald and the Blue — strung across the slope above the resorts with the ocean in the background on nearly every hole. The Gold, designed by Robert Trent Jones Jr. and opened in the mid-1990s, is the toughest of the three, full of bunkers and native-rock hazards. The Emerald is the prettier and the more forgiving, a favorite with couples and higher handicaps, and the Blue is the oldest and the gentlest. None of them is cheap, but the setting is hard to beat, and tee times are open to the public, not just resort guests.

The two Wailea luaus are among the best on the island, and they are the closest ones to our bungalows by a wide margin. Te Au Moana at the Wailea Beach Resort is the big, full-scale luau on a lawn above the sand, and Feast at Mokapu at the Andaz is the smaller, plated, more upscale one. We compare them both, with prices and honest differences, in our guide to the best Maui luaus, so we will not repeat all of it here — just know that a great luau night is fifteen minutes away, not a long drive to the other side of the island.

Beyond the golf and the luaus, Wailea is where you will find the tennis and pickleball club, the spas, the fine-dining rooms and the wedding lawns — the paid, polished side of a Maui trip. That is exactly why it pairs so well with a home base in Kihei. You sleep somewhere easy and affordable, then drive down for the one or two splurges actually worth it, whether that is a tee time, a spa morning or a luau, and skip the rest. The neighborhood is happy to sell you the whole package; you get to pick just the parts you want.

Kihei or Wailea — where we’d actually stay

Guests deciding where to base themselves ask us this all the time, and since we obviously have a horse in the race, we will be straight about the trade-off. Wailea is polished, quiet and expensive: a resort room runs several hundred dollars a night before the resort fee, parking is often paid, and a casual dinner for two can cross into three figures without trying. What you get for it is service, amenities and the ability to walk out your door onto that manicured path. For some trips — a honeymoon, a milestone, a company retreat — that is exactly right, and we would never talk you out of it.

Kihei is the other way around: older, busier, a little worn in places, and a fraction of the price. It is where the working town is, with the cheap eats, the surf shops, the farmers markets and the beaches locals actually use. Our bungalows sit on the quiet north end, steps from three-mile Sugar Beach, and every one of the Wailea beaches is a ten- to fifteen-minute drive south. You can cook your own breakfast, walk to dinner, and still spend every day on the same coast the resort guests paid a premium for. Have a look at the ocean-view bungalow, the couples’ hideaway, the family favorite or the modern one and you will see the gap in the nightly rate.

The happy truth is that you do not have to choose between the two, because Wailea is public. Stay in Kihei for the value and the local feel, spend your days fifteen minutes south on Wailea’s beaches and its path for free, and pocket the hundreds of dollars a night you would have spent to sleep there. That is the whole strategy, and it is the one we have been giving guests since 2012. Wailea is a wonderful place to spend a day. We just think it is a smarter place to visit than to book.

The short version

  • Wailea is Maui’s master-planned resort coast, about 15 minutes south of our Kihei bungalows — polished, calm and pricey.
  • Every beach is public and the parking is free: Keawakapu, Mokapu, Ulua, Wailea Beach and Polo, north to south.
  • Ulua has the best snorkeling in Wailea; go early, before the wind. Sunset is free and excellent from any of the five.
  • The ~1.5-mile Wailea Beach Path links the resorts along the water — free, lovely at sunrise and sunset, whales in winter.
  • The beach lots fill by mid-morning December through April; arrive early or fall back to the Polo Beach lot.
  • You can enjoy all of Wailea for the price of gas — stay in Kihei, visit Wailea by day, and keep the difference.

Common questions

Yes. Every beach in Hawaii is public up to the high-water line, Wailea included, and there is no exception for the resort beaches. When the hotels were built they were required to provide free public beach access and parking, so there are marked public lots at Keawakapu, above Ulua (shared with Mokapu), off Wailea Alanui for Wailea Beach, and at Polo. The hotels own their pools and lawns, not the sand. Walk in through the public access and enjoy the same beach as the guests.

The beach lots are free and unmetered — look for the blue shoreline-access signs at Keawakapu, above Ulua, off Wailea Alanui for Wailea Beach, and at Polo. They are small and they fill early, often by nine in the morning from December through April, so come early. If the Wailea Beach lot is full, the Ulua and Polo lots sometimes still have space. The Shops at Wailea also has a free garage if you are only there to eat or walk.

About fifteen minutes by car from the north end of Kihei, where we are, straight down South Kihei Road as it becomes Wailea Alanui Drive. There are no mountain roads or real traffic involved, so it is one of the easiest drives on the island. That short hop is the whole reason we tell guests they can enjoy Wailea every day without paying to stay there. You will want a car, though; the bus is slow and rideshare is thin on the south side.

Ulua Beach, without much debate. The lava point on its south end holds reef fish and the occasional green sea turtle, and the sheltered cove stays calm and clear on a typical morning. Go early, before the trade winds pick up in the afternoon and cloud the water. Wailea Beach and Polo snorkel fair-to-decent at their rocky edges when it is calm, but Ulua is the one worth planning around. Our South Maui snorkeling guide has the details and the safety basics.

Kihei, by a wide margin. Wailea resort rooms run several hundred dollars a night before resort fees and parking, while Kihei condos and bungalows cost a fraction of that and usually come with a kitchen. Since Wailea’s beaches, path and sunsets are all public and free, plenty of our guests stay in Kihei for the value and simply drive the fifteen minutes south to enjoy Wailea by day. You get the same coast and keep the difference in your pocket.

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